50+ Lifestyles

The Cape Cod of the Midwest Part 2

By Mary Schricker Gemberling

This month we continue our tales from our fall trip to Door County, in Wisconsin, referred to as “The Cape Cod of the Midwest”

Door County’s most valuable asset is its natural beauty. Home to five state parks and twenty county parks, the area is a haven for those who like to explore, hike, fish, bike, boat or camp. Since this was a leaf peeping adventure for us we ooh-ed and aah-ed our way through many of the parks, stopping to absorb the beauty and history unique to the area. There are few things as relaxing as slowly meandering through these country roads just taking in the surrounding beauty.

The Upper Midwest is home to a large number of Swedish descendants, and Door County is no exception. Scandinavian architecture, traditions, and customs are present across the county, especially evident in the shops and dining menus. Al Johnson’s Swedish Restaurant is one such establishment. This isn’t our first time dining at the restaurant, but this time we wanted to try their Swedish pancakes. My plate full of thin pancakes topped with Lingonberries did not disappoint. Al Johnson and his wife started the restaurant in 1949. The menu consists of a variety of authentic Swedish dishes served by men and women in traditional Scandinavian clothing. In 1973 the restaurant was remodeled to add a Batik, (a Scandinavian gift shop) and a sod roof. A friend of Al Johnson placed a goat named Oscar on the roof as a joke, and thus spurred the idea of incorporating goats as a novelty. The idea is now trademarked, making it the only establishment in the United States with goats on the roof.

Another Scandinavian tradition that has fascinated visitors for more than 50 years in Door County is the Fish Boil. Though Native American settlers practiced their own version of the fish boil, the present one is rooted in the 1800’s when a large influx of Scandinavian immigrants brought the Nordic version to the area. With a seemingly endless supply of whitefish in Lake Michigan, the fish boil was an efficient and economical way to feed large crews of lumbermen who were busy clearing the native forests. For years the tradition was passed down though churches and family gatherings, but didn’t become a staple for visitors until 1961, when Lawrence and Annette Wickman began the fish boils at the Viking in Ellison Bay and the White Gull Inn in Fish Creek.In addition to the delicious meal, it is the experience that draws visitors year and year. Locally caught whitefish are boiled in a large kettle, under the supervision of a Boil master, over an open fire in an outdoor community-style kitchen.

Prior to eating, guests are seated on benches to witness both the explanation and cooking process of the meal. When seated in the dining room, diners are served mild whitefish, potatoes, and onions with melted butter, bread, and Door County Cherry Pie.

Many restaurants in the area now have fish boils. We tried the one at the Post Office restaurant in Ephraim. The Fish Boil is one adventure Door County visitors must experience!

Although we have only visited Door County in the autumn, the tourism literature advertises many other activities that can be enjoyed year round. Each season brings its own variety of experiences. Spring is beautiful when the cherry blossoms are in full bloom. Door County summers are second to none with the bright sun, lake breeze, and outdoor music and festivals. Door County’s quiet winters are famous for holiday season festivities to polar plunges, and winter festivals. Snowmobilers love the area when the trails are groomed and fireplaces are burning. The basis of many of Door County’s activities is a rich European culture. There is a Nordic term, Hygge (pronounced ‘Hoo-guh’), that refers to the coziness and comfort that is prioritized in the Scandinavian countries. The concept centers around the peacefulness and wellbeing that can be garnered by embracing little, special moments, sitting by the fire, gathering with friends and family or snuggling up under a blanket with a book. Hygge can be practiced year-round, but it’s especially fitting in wintertime, when the days are short and the weather is cold, because in the Scandinavian culture, all seasons are to be embraced. This feeling of nostalgia is pervasive throughout Door County. Visiting there is a bit like being in a simpler, calmer time of our past.

From sunrise to sunset, we seemed to stay busy during every day of our visit. We enjoyed a fair amount of retail therapy in the many boutiques available throughout Door County. We also tried other restaurants and can’t remember ever being disappointed with either the food or atmosphere. As you can imagine at the end of each busy day we were ready for some relaxation back at the campground. We ended each evening with a game or two of Euchre and a conversation at the campfire. As we prepared to leave on Friday morning we all agreed that it had been another great week celebrating autumn in all its splendor. Although we didn’t decide on next fall’s destination we are all hoping to meet again. At this stage of life there is a delicate balance between living each day to its fullest and long term planning!

“Another Fall, another turned leaf”……..Wallace Stegner

Mary, a former educator and Seniors Real Estate Specialist is the author of four books: The West End Kid, Labor of Love; My Personal Journey through the World of Caregiving,
Hotel Blackhawk: A Center of Elegance, and Ebenezer United Methodist Church: 150 Years of Resiliency.